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Writing Media: The Ink Test

I finally have a new lappy (laptop), so it will be easier for me to make blogs. But there's the problem with the internet speed. If I can find a new way that this internet speed could be consistent, then I wouldn't be having problems updating my blog. 

But I shouldn't be blaming the internet. I just have time management issues. 


Here are the inks that I own so far: 

Kuretake Sumi Ink Black

This ink claims to be waterproof, but not entirely. The ink will still smear when it comes into direct contact with water. But it doesn't react that much when I paint over it with watercolor. Just don't pour too much water. 

I love this ink because its consistency is just right and it flows out of the nib smoothly.


Sumi in writing:
Broad Edge, Italic
Pointed nib, Copperplate

Kuretake White Ink

This Kuretake White Ink was a last minute purchase because I had a commission work to address dark colored envelopes. It turns out that it is not a good idea to use this ink as a writing medium at all, because it cracks when it dries. It's my fault for not reading the label: Highly Opaque white ink for highlights and corrections. I didn't test this ink and haven't used it in a while.


Pelikan 4001 Brilliant Black

Dye-based black ink. I had this for almost 3 years.  I even used this with my Winsor & Newton Calligraphy Ink just to get that smooth and pure black color.

Pelikan in writing:

It may not be obvious with broad edge, but as you see with Copperplate, the ink bleeds on paper. This is what happens when Pelikan (fountain ink) or other dye-based ink is used on some type of paper (for this one I used ordinary bond paper). I've read that using Gum Sandarac can control the bleeding (it can help "produce crisper letters and finer thins"), but I haven't used one. 

I tested Pelikan again on a different paper (one specifically designed for Calligraphy use). This is the result:


Winsor & Newton Calligraphy Ink Matt Black 

This is my favorite black ink! I've read reviews about densely black inks and it's true. I have to shake this little guy before using it because the pigment (is it?) has settled at the bottom. When the ink is too thick that it doesn't write (particularly broad edge), I just add (a little at a time) distilled water. I've read that the liquid evaporates, so you need to add distilled water. And don't worry, the label at the back says you can add distilled water to it when needed :)

W&N Matt Black in writing:
I just had to write those :)

Walnut Ink Crystals 

I initially wanted to buy the walnut ink, but Paper Ink Arts that time had ran out of stock for it. So I went for this instead. For me, it is more economical to go with the crystals since you can control the amount of water to add and stick to a preferred consistency.
Instructions from Paper Ink Arts: Mix one tablespoon of crystals with one oz. distilled water.

The Ink Within

When I made my first walnut ink mixture, I had to use a stirrer because I thought it would mix that way. Some of the crystals turned hard and did not mix with the water right away, so I thought I did something wrong (like putting the crystals in and water afterwards). I just left it alone and it mixed all on its own. What I love about walnut ink is that I can take some of its mixture on another bottle and add more water to get a lighter consistency, or a wash effect. I use this ink a lot for practicing scripts.

I don't know with others who have used the walnut ink, but something settles at the bottom. I have to shake it every now and then when I write. If I don't, it gets thick and won't flow through the nib properly.

Walnut Ink in writing:


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